Layering Produces Rooted Plants

If the rose bush isn’t pliant, you can AIR LAYER. This time, just below a node, cut into the “bark” skinning off about a third of an inch. (The branch will still be able to remain upright.) Wrap the area with soaked sphagnum moss (wear gloves), to form a nice fat “ball” approximately 2 inches in diameter, and three inches up and down. Be certain that the moss is soaking wet.

Now, wrap the ball of moss securely with plastic wrap, going around 3 or 4 times, so that it will be airtight. Tie it at the top and bottom. The moss MUST stay wet, in order for roots to form. Check it periodically, and if it looks dry, open the top, and add water, re-tying securely. If roots don’t form, but the cut forms callus, you can cut the cane below the callus, and treat it like any cutting — but this one will be more likely to root. Some gardeners like to add a layer of Aluminum foil, to be sure no air gets in.

When roots have formed, cut the new little plant off, and re-cut the remaining cane just above a
bud eye.

From “Old Roser’s Digest,” Miriam Wilkins, September 2002

Layering Produces Rooted Plants

You need a pliant cane to root a portion of it in the ground. Bend it over. Cut one third to one half of the way through the cane, just below a bud eye. If the cut tends to shut, insert a small pebble, bean, or sliver of wood.

Has the earth prepared at the spot you intend to use? Pull the cane down, and bury the cut portion in the soil, so that it is well-covered. Say, four inches of soil. Any less, and it will dry out. The end of the cane will be above the soil; you may want to tie it to support. Place a rock, or brick over the covered portion, to hold it under the soil. Water regularly enough to be sure the soil does not dry out. Wait a month or two, before checking for roots.

When roots have formed, cut off the piece with roots included. You may need to cut the remaining portion of the cane back to a bud eye so that it will not die back.